We are both 30 this year! And while we were not long ago on another adventure after we got married (New Zealand's stunning South Island), it's been a busy year (to put it lightly). We've been looking forward to another trip. We just didn't know what—or when—it would be. As my 30th approached, I started to look for little deals and managed to find one for Heron Island. The same way a few of our previous trips have happened, we had a little chat and booked our trip on the same night. 

Rather than flying to Gladstone, we decided to take a cheeky road trip to get to the marina we would be leaving from (we also saved money this way, as the drive is just 6-7 hours from Brisbane). We both love road trips and knowing the destination on the other end was going to be what it was, made it even more enjoyable. After kickstarting the celebrations with my family the night before, we got up early and started the drive, stopping by the picturesque little beachside town of 1770 along the way. This added a bit of time to our drive, with us checking into our accommodation for the night at around 5:30 p.m. 

After a great dinner and some drinks by the marina, we walked back to our room and hung out before turning in early, excited for the following day.

A BOAT RIDE TO PARADISE

For $15 a day, we parked our car in an undercover spot right by the jetty (thanks Compleat Angler). Having handed our dive gear and bags over to be loaded onto the boat, we relaxed by the marina entrance until it was time to board. It was a smooth trip out, and after we had arrived from the open ocean onto the edges of this section of the Great Barrier Reef, we saw the island in the distance.

Located in a green zone, Heron Island is a jewel in the midst of Capricorn Cays National Park. The coral cay began to form 6,000 years ago. An island amid the Coral Sea, it's safe to say we've fallen in love with this little wonderland. The largest coral reef and living structure in the world, the Great Barrier Reef is home to thousands of species, including fish, rays, sharks, octopus, dolphins, turtles and whales.

We've been fortunate enough to stay on multiple islands along the Great Barrier Reef so far, and each place has offered its own spectacular experiences and otherworldly magic, all harbouring that same familiar wonder. Heron Island is a spectacular display of ocean life in its wildest, most beautiful state.

Face to face with calm turtles, gentle rays and curious sharks, the surface sending shimmering rays of vibrant sunlight through the water, casting a magical glow over you. A turtle sees you and soars closer, curious about the strange creature in their home. Amazed, you float almost side by side. Dazzling colours and glorious, rippling surface patterns scatter, reflecting off the bottom of the shallows. It's breathtaking, and yet you've never been able to breathe easier. The ocean is home, especially here. 

A GLIMPSE INTO HERON'S HISTORY

In the 1920s, Heron Island was the site for a turtle soup factory. A delicacy in England (and likely, unfortunately, parts of Australia at the time), the demand was high. The population of turtles was dramatically impacted during the relatively short time the company was in business, and soon enough there weren't enough turtles to meet that demand. As a result, the business came to a (thankful) end. It takes thirty-five years for these creatures to reach maturity, making such a barbaric industry even more horrific. The more time we get to spend in the water with turtles, the more impossible it is to imagine hurting them at all.

In the 1930s, the lease for the land was taken over by Captain Christian Poulsen. Recognising the potential of the island as an adventure destination set far away from the rest of the world, his team built the hotel. Unfortunately, turtle riding became a huge lure for visitors from around the world. In the 1960s, the inhumane practice was finally banned.

An old naval vessel—the HMAS Protector—was found near Gladstone and, in 1943, Captain Poulsen paid 10 pounds for it. Today, that wreck is one of the first sights you see when you approach by boat (it's also where some of the most incredible snorkelling around the island is). This same year, the site was declared a national park. Sadly, Captain Poulsen went missing in the water near the island. He was never found, making his presumed final resting place the waters of the island he loved so much.

In 1951, the Heron Island Research Station was erected. Today, the University of Queensland still runs this invaluable building—the largest coral reef-based research centre in the world. Today, the only physical remnants of the (at times, harrowing) history of Heron Island are the ship that straddles the edge of the reef by the jetty, the research station and the gantry (pulley system) that was once used to load cargo on and off the shoreline.

It is a happy fact to look at the island as it stands today and see it is a sanctuary for not just the turtles, but for all marine life that call these waters home, whether it's for a short while or year-round. Thankfully, nature won here. 

UNPLUGGED IN THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

One of the best parts of Heron Island? There is no reception! While you can buy internet for short bursts, it isn't cheap and quite honestly, it's wonderful being unplugged. Because we came during the quiet season, there weren't that many other people around. After a quick safety briefing, we were ready to explore! It felt private and secluded—exactly what we were hoping for. The rooms are simple, comfortable and quite lovely for a little island so far off mainland's shores.

Our bags were taken to our rooms and we took a walk around the island to see if we'd be bold enough to swim immediately, or if we'd wait to grab our wetsuits. We then had a drink at the bar and read while we waited. Given that it's winter, the water is chilly, but we got used to it really quickly (thanks to our 5mm wetsuits). We probably could have just jumped in in our swimmers, but we didn't want the temperature to drive us out of the water before we were ready to go. 

One of the best rules on Heron Island is "look, don't touch". I've seen so many times when people get so (understandably) excited to be so close to wildlife that they just reach out and grab it. Here, it's made abundantly clear not to disturb the animals by attempting to touch them. And honestly? It's my experience and belief that you genuinely do get closer and more meaningful encounters when you just relax and be calm, taking in the experience. Sea creatures—especially turtles, sharks and rays, as we were reminded of here—are naturally curious. They'll let you know how comfortable they are. Always let them take the lead.

Nature is in full force here. It's bold, it's exciting and it's everywhere. You can't help getting caught up in the thrill of watching a sea turtle glide by you, or seeing a shark check you out as they swim past, of the rays surrounding you. One of the best tips before you come here? Stay away from cone-shaped shells. They're so often cone snails, a very poisonous species. During the safety briefing, we were reminded of the a saying, "if it's a cone, leave it alone". Didn't have to tell us twice.

SWIMMING WITH SHARKS, RAYS & TURTLES

The moment we got in the water at Gantry (the point by the bar), ocean life greeted us from, quite literally, all angles. Almost immediately, four black tip sharks wove around each other directly in front of us in the shallows. I've wanted to swim with these sharks in the wild for so long, and it was the most surreal moment! As they gracefully flitted into the distance, we continued to swim in the rising tide.

Not even ten minutes later, a turtle swam up and eased on by to the right of me. We floated together for a few moments when something caught my eye. Turning slightly, I saw the first (of many, as it turned out!) cowtail stingray of the trip. Stunning rays of sunshine rippled over them as they gracefully glided along the left of me. I turned slightly again, watching in awe as they passed me. Suddenly, beneath me, another soared by and, up ahead, another came towards me from the other direction! I was floored. 

The second ray approached Josh from behind, where he was floating with another green sea turtle, and we were sandwiched in between three rays, two turtles, a whole lot of fish and who knows what else. And this was the start of our time there. Somehow, it kept getting better. We hung out with so much wildlife that, by the time we excitedly headed to our beach cabin after that first swim, we'd spent two hours in the water. It felt—as it always does in the sea—simultaneously like an eternity, and like no time at all. 

Every snorkel and dive here was full of moments just as magical as this one. Josh found himself swimming side by side two different eagle rays, on different occasions. I swam alongside a black tip reef shark that felt almost as big as I was, for a few minutes. A green sea turtle swam up and around Josh. Another day, I was lucky enough to have a turtle glide between myself and the wreck, slowly getting ready for the morning beside me. I nearly missed a white tip reef shark behind me on our first dive. In the mornings and evenings, the rays of sunlight created the most beautiful lighting, the calm tones the perfect outer reflection for how it felt being in the water.

Josh and I spent one afternoon walking to the far side of the island, drifting from Shark Bay around to the Gantry, seeing giant clams, an abundance of fish and, finally, our shark, ray and turtle friends. On our last morning snorkel off the jetty, the second we entered the water we saw shovel nose rays, cowtails and a sizeable lemon shark (I'd been so keen to see one of these the entire trip, it really was a highlight for me!). We even watched whales cruise by. This island is pure magic. In every encounter, we were chilling in the sea, keeping a respectful distance and enjoying seeing how close each animal chose to get. Paradise.

WILDLIFE WATCHING FROM THE SHORE

Given the nature of the surrounding reef's structure, the tides dictate when/how long you can be in the water for, for the most part (coupled with the jetty, the deepest entry points, being closed 8a.m. to 5:30p.m. daily for boat activity). The tides were high in the mornings and late afternoons/early nights, so we made the most of those precious hours we could spend in the reef snorkelling, and got some incredible dives in, in between! 

When we couldn't be in the water, we were pretty much always reading by the bar, having lunch at the restaurant or walking around the island along the sand or through the ancient Pisonia forests. The edge of the boardwalk by the bar is lined with low wooden seats that double as a short fence, lining the shore. We watched sharks, rays and turtles from the vantage point. Even after five days of doing this, it never got old. 

Our first beach walk, we were sitting along the rocks when we noticed what looked like mossy bones, embedded into the rock. It turns out, these are chiton, also known as a "living fossil". A type of mollusc, their eight plates offer a protective barrier against thrashing waves and predators, and they are known for being quite challenging to spot (how lucky we saw so many!). We have 150 species here, 90 of which are found only in Australia. How cool is that?! 

On a walk around Gantry, we ran into some lovely ladies who were travelling together, and we stopped to chat and watch the wildlife down below (that's always one of the best parts of new places, you'll be surprised to know just how easy it is to talk with other legends, bonding over the place that brought you to where you are). We fell asleep early every night around 8–9p.m., listening to the soft sounds of the gentle tides meeting the sandy shores. Yet, there is magic not just on the island and its surrounding reef, but beyond...

'I can mention many moments that were unforgettable and revelatory. But the most single revelatory three minutes was the first time I put on scuba gear and dived on a coral reef. It's just the unbelievable fact that you can move in three dimensions.'

— David Attenborough

DIVING THE GREAT BARRIER REEF!

I love diving. However, having only done my certification dives, I was honestly a little nervous. My first time diving, I struggled with equalisation the entire time and ended up with quite a gnarly ear infection. It had been a little over two years since then, but I was eager to get past it. I did a pool refresher and I can't recommend it enough. By the time we were gearing up to get in the water on our first dive at Heron's Bommie, I felt much more at ease. Descending, my ears were giving me hell, however the dive master, Berto, was incredibly patient and kind, showing me a new trick for equalisation that has now become my saving grace. 

After my easiest descent yet (though not effortless, in the beginning), Berto gave me a fist bump and we were 17 metres below the surface! I saw Josh and I felt completely calm. On that first dive, we saw it all...a huge, thriving ecosystem in perfect harmony. A turtle seeking refuge under a large coral. Reef tip sharks effortlessly gliding around the reef. Massive schools of colourful fish, encircling us, accepting us as their own. In the distance, eagle rays soaring above. Josh even saw an eel attacking a poor octopus—he got away, though! It was truly a kaleidoscopic, beautiful experience.

Somehow, we were the ones looking up at rays, sharks and turtles as they wove around us. Hearing my steady breathing and becoming more confident during the dive, I started dipping deeper to immerse myself impossibly more...it's the best kind of meditation I can think of. I forgot the feeling...like you're flying, effortlessly part of the ocean. And now I'm addicted and cannot wait to dive more. Years ago, I remember writing 'Dive the Great Barrier Reef' on my bucket list. Here I am. I did it! With my partner, no less. This will not be the last trip to dive the GBR for us.

Our second dive was to the left of the jetty, out at Harry's Bommie, and our third was to Tenements. Each dive gave us a different experience, and all of them were amazing. At Heron's Bommie, we found an aquatic paradise with abundant marine life. At Henry's Bommie, we drifted through the biggest coral gardens I've ever seen, with creatures off in the distance, just far enough away we couldn't see more than their outlines. And at Tenanents, we cruised through unbelievable bommies and reef structures, fish keeping us company the entire way. We both fell in love with diving even more. I came home from Heron Island a genuinely confident diver. 

TAKING INSPIRATION FOR GREAT REEF

I've had some amazing experiences here, and many of them are captured for inspiration for an upcoming series. And of all the shots I managed to get, these two are my favourites. That morning, we woke up at sunrise and took a walk over to the jetty to check the tides and make sure it was indeed deep enough to head out with ease. It was, so we excitedly geared up back at our little cabin, grabbed our GoPros and got into the water under the jetty to check out the shipwreck. This particular morning had the most gorgeous morning light, shimmering down from the surface of the water. The colour palette of the ocean was the most perfect, vibrant blue. 

The shipwreck was stunning to see up close, with stingrays, sharks, fish and a few cheeky turtles gracing us with their presence. As we rounded the front of the rusted frame of the once-lively ship, a green sea turtle swam by, turning slightly to check us out. Deeming us to be harmless, the cutie swam right up to us, allowing us to swim alongside it. One of my favourite animals to swim with is turtles (especially when they raise their little heads above the surface to take a breath).

My next collection, after Aotearoa, is Great Reef. I've always loved capturing the world, however it's only recently that I've begun to play with focusing my shots more clearly and intentionally. Even so, I'm finding (at least, for now) that I don't feel the need to invest in a huge, bulky camera. This is largely because I much prefer to immerse myself in the moment, letting the camera do the hard work so I don't have to look at the reality through a lense. I can experience it firsthand, wholeheartedly. At the moment, GoPro (and DJI, when we are allowed to use our drone, which, in this case, we weren't, due to the island being a bird sanctuary) is perfect.

By the time 2023 comes to a close, it is my hope that The Global Chapters will have three collections. And, even more exciting is the awareness that so much more is coming. This is just the start. The best is, always, yet to come. I am so excited.