Isolated Wonderland & Milford Sound
When my partner and I landed in Queenstown, I was so excited, so emotional. This is the first time we've been overseas since the pandemic. After a lovely few days exploring Queenstown, eating, drinking and driving around, it was time to take off to one of the destinations I was most excited for. When we picked up our van, we packed our bags into the bag and off we went! We played podcasts and listened to some of our favourite playlists on the drive, excited to take in not just this spot, but New Zealand with the van we'd hired for this adventure.
I have been so excited to show Josh New Zealand, and to experience it myself in a different season. And Milford was a must-do. So, that's how we kickstarted our road trip! I fell in love with Milford Sound the first time I saw it years ago. It was my first overseas trip with one of my best friends, and it was a snowy winter wonderland. This time, it was summer...and it was spectacular. But the best part? Milford Sound's wonder is apparent long before you get to the visitor centre...
New Zealand is magic, but there's something about Milford Sound. The eighth wonder of the world (as Rudyard Kipling dubbed it back in the 1980s, after laying eyes on the sight). And it truly is. Whether it's in winter—covered in a blanket of shimmering snow—or in summer—when the greens and blues of the fiord shine through—this UNESCO World Heritage Site is beautiful and unique in its grandeur. I'm not sure I've ever seen a place more breathtaking in its sheer size.
A NATURAL PARADISE IN THE MAKING
Fun fact: Milford Sound isn't a sound at all. It's a fiord (hence Fiordland National Park). Over time, the erosion of the surrounding glaciers created the ancient landscape—a fiord in the making (sounds, on the other hand, are forged when the ocean causes a river to flood). The only fiord in the country accessible by road, there truly is nowhere like Milford. The drive is like something out of a fairytale. The entire time, we just kept pointing things out. It's impossible not to feel the astounding depth of it all, the layers that make up this once-in-a-lifetime place.
There is a rich history behind this ancient paradise, from the Maori tribes' discovery, utilisation and protection of the area, to the legend itself about its creation. There are many stories about this part of the region, all of them lending to the vibrant culture that finds its true home amid these fiords. One is centred around a god on a journey to create a perfect landscape. The story says that, once upon a time, a god named Tu Te Raki Whanoa used his magical adze and a series of incantations to create the spectacular area, navigating inexperience to go on to create a perfect dreamland. Finding it to be his best work, Milford Sound is where he completed his journey.
Another legend is one of big dreams and sad origins. The Maori named Milford Sound Piopiotahi, meaning 'one piopio'. On a man's adventure from his home, Hawaiki, he took with him a thrush bird. Along the way, Maui challenged Hine-nui-te-po (the Goddess of Death) to a duel, with his prize, should he win, being immortality for his people. But the goddess was too strong, crushing him. When he was killed, his little bird took to the skies to escape, to mourn. The bird's dispairing song created the towering landscapes and glassy waters. While the piopio is today extinct, Milford Sound is a refuge for countless birds and other wildlife species.
And these are just two of several legends. These stories are beautiful, carving vivid pictures of the incredible cultural and natural significance of this utopia. Upon travelling through this part of the country, it became painfully obvious just how little we knew about the cultural history here. We've bought a few books here and are already diving in, learning on the road. The fierce, splendid sights alone make you want to reach for more, to understand it in a more meaningful way. So, we are.
'This is a brief life, but in its brevity it offers us some splendid moments, some meaningful adventures.'— Rudyard Kipling, Kim
DEER FLATS, AN ISOLATED WONDERLAND
I was in awe driving into Deer Flats. It had been recommended to us by dear friends, and we were excited, though we had no idea what to expect upon arrival. On the drive in, we saw birds gliding above us, fluffy white clouds dancing in the blue sky and fog lifting off the peaks off the mountains that lined the road. I was, just like last time, stunned. It's one thing to see footage of this place, but it's entirely another to be immersed in it. We're each firm believers that the best way to experience somewhere is to immerse ourselves, whether it's on a scooter, in a van or on foot. Being able to do this, on our own time, made it even more spectacular.
This place doesn't feel real. It's truly magical. It was an overcast afternoon when our van edged off the road into the sound and towards (as we realised upon parking up) a wonderland all to ourselves (a little later on, a few other vehicles rocked up, but even then we barely saw another soul). It's here that we saw our first fields of lupins of the trip. A dizzying array of bursting purples and bold pinks greeted us among the endless fields of green. And then it opened up. The mountains, the dissipating mist, the mossy flora, the glacier-fed stream. As we carefully drove onward, to the left was the ideal spot for us to make home for the night.
Reversing in to settle alongside the water, we went to explore. From the monumental mountain spaces to the vibrant shades of green on the smallest leaves, we were floored. And it just (somehow) kept getting better. We climbed up the hill next to our van to see the view from the other side, around the bend. And then, making our way back to the other side through the waist-high lupins, the field gave way to a calmer, shallow spot in the water. We walked in, the crystal-clear water seeping through our hiking boots and planting our feet evermore solid to the pebbles at the bottom. It literally looked like the home of fairies. We just kept looking at each other in shock. It felt—and still does—like a gift to be there, literally just us and nature. It was immediately a highlight.
After we had gotten back to the van, we put on (necessary) bug spray, set up the camp chairs and poured some champagne. Just days into our trip, we were already having such an unbelievable time. Josh read and I went for a little walk by myself to take it all in. After coming back and grabbing my Kindle, I walked over to read under a tree by the winding waters. Listening to the waster rush by is, still, better than any soundtrack I can think of. I was reading an adventure book I'd had my eye on for a while, and I was on a great adventure of my own. Looking up, the mossy trees created a framework around my partner, by the van. The misty air was clearing more and more. I teared up many times...that this is my life.
It seemed insane that we had arrived in a place this picture-perfect, and it was literally just us there. We made the most of it, absorbing as much of the secluded peace as we could. We had a simple van dinner and went to sleep excitedly talking about the following day, hoping for great weather. As I mentioned, this place had been recommended to us, so we knew it would be great. But neither of us were prepared for just how much we'd love it. Reading in our little wonderland is a snapshot that will always stay in my memory. As if this stop wasn't wondrous enough, Deer Flats was but a stop along the way to somewhere (somehow) greater.
I woke up in awe in Deer Flats, the misty air weaving around the mountains and the bubbling stream creating the ultimate natural alarm. We'd heard how often it rains in Milford, but we had high hopes for a blue sky day on the sound. We had to be on the road early to get to the boat dock in time, so we got on the road, taking a last mental picture before leaving this special, special place. Having a quick stop over to change and brush our teeth a little ways away at a more structured camp ground, we switched seats and Josh drove the rest of the way.
DRIVING THROUGH A FAIRYTALE
The last time I did this drive, it was in the middle of winter. Sparkling shades of white and glimpses of stone and bark were about as colourful as it got along the way into the fiord. But this time? Show-stopping colours and textures wove together to bring to life a scene right out of The Enchanted Wood. I kept looking over at Josh through teary eyes. I don't know how else to explain it other than to simply say that Milford Sound feels like home to my soul (home is wherever our family is—but it's here, too). Sheer stone drops met tangles of green jungle. The blue sky was, at this point, full, just a few white clouds passing by. The peaks of the mountain faces were dusted with a bright white, the last of winter's snow stubbornly clinging to the landscape.
The raw beauty of it all leaves you speechless in wonder. When we pulled up to the tunnel (one of the parts I was most excited to see Josh experience!), we got to chatting to a lovely older couple in the car in front of us. As we spoke, a kea landed on the car! Keas are the world's only alpine parrot, and are considered treasures to the Maori people. They are also, as we found out, quite cheeky! Apparently they are quite used to people here and will even try—often succeeding—to tear the rubber from car doors and the like (this is probably why there's signs about to warn people off feeding them. While they are inquisitive, it has unfortunately come to be to their detriment, with just 7,000 or so wild animals left, many of them tagged, as this one was).
With the loveliest shades of blue, green, yellow and orange on its wings, it was wonderful to see so close. Then it took flight and landed on the next vehicle in line—ours (I caught it mid-take off, and it ended up being one of my favourite shots). As we prepared for the lights up ahead to change, we got back in the car and watched the curious creature walk right across our windscreen, watching us the entire time! Seeing the beautiful parrot so close and personal, in its natural habitat, was such a special experience. It was the perfect welcome into the heart of the sound.
A WILD WELCOME TO ANCIENT UTOPIA
As our trusty van headed out the other side of the tunnel, Josh literally gasped. I cried (I do often shed a tear in beautiful places). A kaleidoscope of vivid earthy tones welcomed us, our eyes adjusting from the sweeping darkness to the insane sight before us. We wove down the windy ribbon of a road to an ever-brightening morning. The climbing vines clinging to the trees, the countless waterfalls among the trees, the barrelling glacier-fed rapids that lined the road in sections. It was all so mesmerising. It is no wonder why the Maori people hold Milford Sound so close to their hearts and their culture.
For thousands of years, the Māori people have been travelling to Milford to fish, hunt and utilise the pounamu, making use of various traditional pathways through this iconic landscape. One such pathway is today known as the Milford Track (i.e. Mackinnon Pass). Today, the easiest way to explore the fiord is by boat. We booked the Southern Discoveries Cruise & Kayak tour, allowing us to cruise through the sound and then kayak! Milford sees rain on average 182 days of the year (and up to250 millimetres in twenty-four hours), so having a blue sky day was truly wild.
Upon arrival in our trusty van (Jucy gang!), we walked into the cruise centre that borders the waters of Milford and were welcomed by a huge pounamu (greenstone), with a sign explaining the significance of the treasured stone. In New Zealand, pounamu is only found in the South Island. Fun fact: Mainly found along the West Coast, pounamu's origin is also the origin of the island's name, Te Waipounamu, meaning 'the waters of greenstone'. There are a few legends surrounding pounamu, and today New Zealand is one of just a few nations that protects jade rather than mining for it, ensuring its protection for years to come. Said to bring strength, prosperity and protection on travels, pounamu has more than earned its sacred status. I bought a few pieces for myself and I will treasure them forever, having dipped them in the waters of Te Waipounamu before flying home.
Reading the history of the stone and the place on the walls of the welcome centre was the perfect way to kickstart the adventure.
EXPLORING MILFORD FROM THE WATER
After boarding and finding seats, the boat eased out of the dock and towards the first of many waterfalls. We started off on the top of the boat, eventually finding cosy seats inside on the lower level with giant glass windows providing pristine views. With our lunch in hand, we ate and talked about the trip so far, trying to guess which animals we would see on the day. We'd already seen a kea and we were excited to see what else we could spot! I was hopeful for dolphins, orcas and whales, and while we didn't see them, we did spot some chilled out NZ Fur Seals! We watched the small group laze atop a rock near the cliffside. They can spend up to eight days in the sea hunting, coming ashore to rest and feed afterwards. We'd never seen seals in the wild, so it was quite exciting!
I also hoped for some Fiordland Crested Penguins, however while we saw their nesting grounds when kayaking, they eluded us (more reason to go back!). Even so, the kayaking portion of the way was absolutely unreal. Usually, we would choose to each get our own, however being the first trip after we got married, we chose to get a two-person kayak so we could explore it literally together. We were dropped off to a small research station sitting nestled in the side of the fiord and, after a safety briefing, we grabbed life vests and jumped in! While it was a guided tour, we were able to pretty much paddle around at our leisure as long as we didn't veer too far off-course. So we did.
You know those moments when you're looking around you, in awe, and you just know this is a bucket list moment, an undeniable highlight of life? That's what this moment was for us. We relaxed and took in the views, marvelling at the clear, crisp water and the colour palette on display. From the greens, blues and yellows of the water, to the glassy reflections of the mountains dropping into the sea, you feel like this is wonderland. And it is. At one point where the mouth of a stream pulls into the fiord itself, you can even drink the water! All too soon, we were paddling back to the research station, riding the natural high and excitedly chatting with the rest of the group about the epic conditions on the fiord. How fortunate we were! But the adventure wasn't over yet.
SEE YOU SOON, PIOPIOTAHI
We wandered down to the underwater observatory after climbing out of our kayaks and learnt about the wildlife that frequent the waters here. From sea stars and fish to eagle rays, seals, dolphins, orcas and whales, Milford Sound welcomes countless species every year. Some visit for a short while and others call this place home. By the time the boat came back to pick us up for the trip back to mainland, we were sad to be leaving. As we glided back to the boat dock, we were in bliss. This experience is genuinely one of the best adventures we have gone on so far, and I feel like it will always remain so.
We filled the van up in arguably the most beautiful little fuel station in the world, and got on the road, stopping every now and then for final glimpses of Milford Sound, the lupins, the glacier fed streams and the magnificent, sweeping landscapes. Milford Sound is a world all its own. It will have a piece of my heart forever, and I know we will be back.
