Waterfalls & golden temples at Doi Suthep
The mountains of Doi Suthep are towering and powerful, and the vibrant greenery of the forests that cover said mountains add a charming sense of peace to the landscape. One of Thailand's earliest national parks (the 24th national park, to be exact), Doi Suthep is just one part of an expansive 261 square kilometre stretch of lush forest. We knew before we rode up the mountains that the glistening golden site we were heading for was dated back to 1386, we had seen a few photos, but honestly nothing could have prepared us for just how special this place is.
Wat Pra That Doi Suthep (i.e. the glistening golden site mentioned above) marks one of the most holy Buddhist sites in all of Thailand and was built in the fourteenth century. 1,676 metres in elevation, this is a remarkable place high up above the city. A place of significant pilgrimage, this remarkable temple is a testament of the sheer beauty of Thai culture. The golden plated Chedi (i.e. monument) stands tall at twenty-four metres and can be seen from the city of Chiang Mai on some especially clear days. If you want to, you can even choose to take part in a meditation course that is available at the International Buddhism Centre (which is located on the site grounds). The buddhas are also kind and happy to answer any questions you have about their religion and way of life.
I think what was so special about this place is that it had so many tourists, yes, but there were more local people who were praying and giving thanks all around us. Quite literally around every corner, there were individuals praying. At first, it felt a little invasive to be there, given how obviously important this place is to these people, however many of them looked at us and smiled kindly, which made us feel almost at home (a feat that is not necessarily easy when you are so far away from home). Getting up to the temple site itself is beautiful and you will be asked to wear one of their covers on your waist, given the holy nature of the site.
The cultural significance and history here is impossible not to feel as you make your way up the steps and to the entrance temple. The walk up from the carpark is lovely. Locals have vibrant market stalls and you can buy some delicious food (a quick sidenote: even as we were parking the scooter, we saw so many gorgeous little puppies and even some kittens, all of which looked well looked after, which was lovely to see and so adorable). There are literally hundreds of steps that lead up to the temple grounds from the carpark area.
Lining each side of these red brick stairs are the longest naga balustrade in Thailand. Nagas are water serpents and are a sacred symbol that is believed to bring good luck as well as thriving as the bridge between Earth and sky. If you don't want to walk up, you can take a (recently replenished) cable car for a small fee of 50 Thai Baht to the top where the temple site is located. When you enter the temple grounds itself, you notice a Bodhi tree (or, the Tree of Enlightenment). Underneath this tree is a Buddha and throughout the temple grounds you will notice murals that depict Buddhism practices and teachings, as well as rakhang (i.e. temple bells).
One of the most intriguing parts of this golden site was the legacy of the white elephant. There is a white elephant statue that stands within the temple grounds and is a remembrance of a legend that speaks of the origin of this place and how it came to be. The legend says that a monk named Sumanathera dreamed of a holy relic that he had to travel to Pang Cha to find. Sumanathera did indeed travel to find it and he would. The relic was a shoulder bone. This shoulder bone was believed to be from Guatama Buddha himself and had mysterious powers (the likes of which included the capability to mirror itself, hide itself, and glow from within. Sumanathera took the bone to the king and after ceremonial offerings were made, the bone seemed to be no more than an ordinary bone. Wandering through Doi Suthep brings a quote from one of my favourite books to mind.
'The simple things are also the most extraordinary things, and only the wise can see them.'
Paulo Coelho, The Alchemist
The king told Sumanathera to keep the bone, given that it seemed to obviously hold no magical or mystical abilities. At this point in the story, another King, Keu Naone of La Na heard about the relic and called for it to be brought forth to him in Lamphun. The king had a special temple built in his flower garden for the relic. In the journey, the relic separated itself into two. The smaller of the two pieces was placed in the flower garden temple. The larger piece, however, proved more challenging to adequately place, given its momentous value.
The king ultimately decided to place the larger bone on the back of a white elephant in a small chedi. He decided that the temple would be built wherever the white elephant chose to stop. In Thai culture, white elephants are particularly auspicious animals. The elephant began its journey from what is now the Elephant Gate in Chiang Mai's Old City northern quarter. The elephant walked to the top of Doi Suthep, "trumpeted three times, turned around and knelt to die". So, the temple was built.
One point I will mention is that while we were there, the beginnings of local protests were starting to mount. Doi Suthep is a spectacular mountain and it is holy to its people. Judicial members were moving in and making home in a controversial budding estate located on the foothills of Doi Suthep and, understandably, the people were unhappy, wanting to protect this cultural and environmental site. I am not sure what will end up happening with this, however I hope that the locals get to keep this sacred landscape from further construction.
From learning about the temple's history and significance as we wandered around and exchanging smiles with the Buddhists, locals, and other tourists, to finding waterfalls and lush natural gems on our scooter ride back to the city, this was such a special day. It was a day that we will not long forget. I hope we never do. Coming here was a definite highlight of our time in Thailand, and a place that anyone who goes to Chiang Mai should make a point of visiting.
